Post by s54smg2 on Jun 28, 2013 1:53:12 GMT -5
e46 m3 diy
VANOS
*(this diy includes exhaust hub & centering sleeve bolt upgrades)
Parts & Tools:
VANOS
*(this diy includes exhaust hub & centering sleeve bolt upgrades)
Parts & Tools:
- VANOS gasket
SHOP
VANOS Gasket
- banjo bolt crush washers (2)
SHOP Washers - banjo bolt crush washers (2) additional to above
SHOP washers - floor jack
- jack-stands
- cam lock timing tool
- top dead center pin
- fan removal tool
- pliers (needle nose)
- Torx 25, 30
- 5mm allen socket
- 3/8 driver short/long extension
- 8, 10, 13, 17mm sockets
- 7, 10, 24, and 32mm open end wrench
- torque wrench
- plenty of shop towels
- 13 cap nuts (if needed)
SHOP Cap Nuts - 13 cap nut washers
SHOP Washers - 13 rubber seals
SHOP Seals - 2 cap nuts
SHOP nuts - 2 rubber seals
SHOP seals - 6 profile gaskets
SHOP gaskets - 2 copper crush washers (banjo bolt)
SHOP washers
This is a good time to also do:
Valve Adjustment DIY link
SparkPlug/Coil DIY link
BeltChange DIY link
Dr VANOS (use this link)- rebuilt VANOS with all upgraded internals
- exhaust hub -cryogenically treated
- cam timing tool
- upgraded cam bolts
- modified splined gear
- sprocket
- timing chain
Besian Systems(use this link)- oil pump disk
- rebuilt VANOS solenoid coil pack
- sealing plate repair kit
- seals repair kit
- rattle repair kit
- rattle install tools
Step 1: Remove air ducting, fan shrouds, fan & belly pan- jack the front of your car onto jack-stands (jack-stand DIY link)
- remove the belly pan under the front of the car
- remove kidney intake ducting starting with the corner that connects to the airbox
- using your pliers, remove the 4 clips holding down the intake ducting
- pull out the top pin and remove
- using our fan removal tool and 32mm wrench its time to remove the fan
- place the fan removal tool onto the water pump bolts to hold it steady
- use the 32mm wrench on the crank bolt and free up the fan by turning the wrench clockwise
- once loose you can use the fan blades to spin the crank bolt off the thread
- carefully lift the fan out from the top of the car between the block and the shroud and set it aside
- remove rivet clip holding the two side air-guides
- pull the top pin and remove
- remove 3 wire clips from the top of the fan shroud. 2 on the pass. side/1 on the driver side
- driver side wire clip is only removed to allow room to access the torx25
- remove the 2 top torx25 bolts from the fan shroud
- from under the car, remove remaining 2 torx25 bolts from the fan shroud
- take out the side air guide and center fan shroud
- shroud should lift strait up out of the top
- driver side air guide will not be removed as it has a coolant hose running through it.
Remove the engine cover:- remove strut brace
- remove wire cover from cabin filter housing
- remove cabin filter
- remove cabin filter housing (see location of torx bolts below)
- remove 6 engine cover bolts
- remove oil cap
- remove vent hose
To remove valve cover:- remove banjo bolt on the side of the valve cover. (watch for the two crush washers on either side of the bolt)
- remove ground wire bolt on side of valve cover
- unclip the O2 sensor holder with squeeze clips
- gently move rubber grommet out of the way
- remove coils by disconnecting clip and pulling strait up (pic below)
To remove valve cover:- remove 15 valve cover bolts
- you can unbolt the positive battery wire if you choose to
- carefully lift. (if its stuck in any way you can put your fingers in the oil fill to help pull up)
- re-install the fan to manually crank the motor
- crank your motor until the top dead center mark on the flywheel is in position
- the first cylinder cam lobes will be facing each other when set correctly (pic below)
- install the top dead center pin
- with the TDC pin in position you can now install the cam lock tool
- E goes on the intake side and A onto the exhaust
- you can see the holes in the cam shafts where you will set the cam lock pin
- the timing is not compromised until the vanos hubs are removed
- if the cam lock pin does not fit you can use a 24mm wrench to move the cam shaft slightly
The vanos is ready to be removed- the vanos solenoid is hiding three 5mm allen bolts which hold the vanos on. these bolts cannot be accessed until the solenoid is removed
- first, unclip the wire harness on the bottom left of the vanos solenoid (pic below)
- make sure to cover the lower area under the solenoid, when removed a small amount of oil will drip
- remove the five, 5mm bolts on top of the vanos. be careful not to let the solenoid fall when removing the final bolt
- remove the two 10mm bolts on the sides of the vanos and replace them with 2 long 5mm allen bolts from the top of the vanos
- only screw the long 5mm bolts in the sides partailly as they will be used to support the vanos when removing the spline shafts from the unit
- remove the banjo bolt and the two, 10mm chain guard bolts located up top on the inside of the valve cover gasket
- remember to keep all areas covered with towels at all times
- anything dropped into the timing chain area means you will have to remove your oil pan to get it out. . not fun and very time consuming
- here is the solenoid removed
- below are the Besian System sealing plate gaskets
- old gaskets must be carefully scraped away without damaging the plate to install new gaskets
- 2 long bolts are now installed in the sides to support the vanos
- remove the six 5mm allen end cap bolts
- pull vanos caps off or hit them lightly with a rubber mallet to remove
- have shop towels ready for small amounts of oil when removing caps
- with the end caps removed this will allow to push the shafts in to reach the splines when re-installing the vanos
- remove the remaining three, 5mm allen bolts that were hidden behind the solenoid
- with all bolts removed, slide the vanos back on the long side bolts
- the splined shafts are still attached to the vanos
- using the 7 and 10mm open end wrenches, carefully remove each shaft from the vanos (see pic below) do NOT drop the wrench into your oil pan!
- once the shafts are removed you can unscrew the side bolts and remove the vanos
- the splined shafts can now be removed from hubs, pull them out with your hands
- use the 10mm socket to remove the 6 intake/exhaust hub bolts and remove the hubs one at a time
- when removing the hubs be careful of the large washers behind them as seen in the pic below
- make sure you have towels under the hubs to prevent anything from falling into the oil pan
- notice the tab indents inside the hub for the large washer
- the splined shafts look the same but differ in the length of the threads on them
- the exhaust spline has a longer thread shaft than the intake hub
- simply remove the old cam gear bolts one at a time while installing the new upgraded bolts and your done. very easy upgrade while your in here
- be sure to have the area covered with a towel underneath the bolts, you do not want to remove your oil pan today!
Re-installing the splined shafts. This step MUST be done correctly and is critical to the timing and proper function of your engine
-your cam timing lock pin should be installed in line with the hub you are working with before completing next steps- the first step is to install the hubs. be sure to have both washers in the back of the hubs before installing (see previous pictures)
- when bolting on the hub one at a time, install 2 bolts 180 degrees from each other and do not tighten them completely (see hub on left in pic above)
- in the picture below you can see that the hub has a small range of clockwise/counterclockwise movement where it bolts in, allowing movement for the correct installation of the spline shafts
- once you have installed two bolts, turn the hub clockwise (right) as far as it will allow
- with spline in hand and hub rotated to the far right, the rule of thumb is to fit the spline shaft into the hub and rotate the hub counterclockwise until the shafts teeth slides into the hub. I SUGGEST A DIFFERENT METHOD. .
- the splines have a "sweet spot" on them. instead of turning the hub counterclockwise until the spline fits, rotate the spline around in your hand and keep trying to install it until it's teeth fit perfectly into the hub barley even moving the hub counterclockwise as it goes in. . that is what i call the "sweet spot". WHY IS THIS IMPORTANT?. .
- this is important to ensure full range of motion of your splines in and out of the hubs. when done this way, you will have full range of motion eliminating any doubt moving forward that you have set your timing properly. when set properly tighten the two 10mm bolts, locking down the hub position.
- when installing the shafts I prefer to set them flush with the hubs as seen in the picture above. this is how they were positioned when I disassembled in the top dead center position. upon starting the car it will put itself into full retard position, timing will be set perfectly
- important: after you have re-installed your vanos but before you install the valve cover, I strongly suggest cranking the motor by hand with the 32mm crank bolt. if you have any problems with the timing, your valves will hit and you wont be able to crank the motor by hand. this is a mandatory step to ensure not damaging your motor if something throughout this procedure was done incorrectly
Re-Install the Vanos: -add new vanos gasket before bolting the unit on- support the vanos with the 5mm long allen bolts again
- line up your oil pump disc and slide the disc with vanos into the exhaust hub tabs
- connect the shafts using your 7 and 10mm open end wrenches
- you can push the connecting rods toward the spline shafts where the end caps are off on the vanos
- when both spline shafts are connected you can position the vanos in place and install the lower three, 5mm allen bolts
- remove the long side bolts and install the correct 10mm side bolts
- install the solenoid using the five, 5mm allen bolts, be sure to line up your sealing plate properly before bolting down
- reconnect your solenoid wire clip
- install the vanos end caps by pressing them on. if you mixed them up it is ok, they are both identical (six, 5mm allen bolts)
- with your vanos now installed, crank your motor by hand to ensure your timing is correct. again, if your timing is not correct you will feel a valve hit before you complete a full rotation and stop you from cranking further. It is better to find out this way rather than crossing your fingers and turning the key later
- follow picture directions above if you run into any trouble when buttoning up the rest of the motor
- *when re-installing your valve cover gasket be sure to clean the surface area completely without dropping any debris into the motor. I do not use any gasket sealer and have never had an oil leak.
Disclaimer: Do this procedure at your own risk! This is offered for reference only. I disclaim all liability for direct, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages or injuries that result from the use of any of these examples, instructions, or other information.
- 13 cap nuts (if needed)
